My visit to Cuba...

On June 7, 2002, I flew from Miami to Cuba to participate in the III International Conference on Language, Communication, and Development, hosted by the University of Pinar del Río, Cuba. I returned on June 12; in between, I had one of the more memorable experiences of my life. I discovered a proud and resourceful people living in a very beautiful place less than 100 miles from Florida. I made some new friends and saw some awesome scenery. This page contains a few photos of my visit, along with some commentary.

 

Pinar del Río is Cuba's westermost province. The region is heavily agricultural, with tobacco being one of the most important crops. The city of Pinar del Río is about two hours from La Habana by auto.

The highway. This is Autopista A-4, the road from La Habana to Pinar del Río. Four lanes, but not a lot of traffic. The speed limit is 80 km, or about 50 mph. You share the road with bicyclists, horseback riders, hitch-hikers, ox and horse carts, vintage autos, buses, etc.
The Hotel Pinar del Río. The hotel where I stayed is across the street from the University, at the end of Highway A-4 from La Habana. Note the 1950's era car on the street, a relic of the days when Cuba was essentially a US colony. Despite the longstanding US bloqueo (embargo), people keep these cars runnning as long as they can.
The University of Pinar del Río. The university opened in 1972, and is named for the brothers Saiz Montes de Oca, two Pinar del Río youth who were killed in the Cuban Revolution. This is the Edificio Docente or teaching building, which houses the language laboratory and where most language teaching goes on, and this is also where the Conference I attended was held.

José Martí. Martí is the secular patron saint of Cuba, and his likeness is everywhere. This bust is on the second floor of the Edificio Docente...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

...and this billboard overlooks a street intersection. Note the horse-drawn cart.

 

 

A wall in the student residencias (dorms) has posters featuring quotes from Martí and Fidel Castro. Martí's (far right) reads "An educated people will always be a free people."

 

Castro's quote (left) reads "Create wealth with conscience and not conscience with wealth."

Pinar del Río. Here a new friend and I stand on the glorieta looking down Calle Martí toward the University.
The Natural History Museum.
Mural on the side of a building.
One mode of transportation in the city is by carro de caballo, or horse-drawn wagon.
Fellow passengers on the carro de caballo.
Elementary school children. In Cuba, education is free through university.
In addition to vintage cars, new cars, buses, horse carts, and bicycles, Cubans also sometimes make use of these passenger-carrying tricycles for transport.
Viñales Valley. A small group from the conference took a tour of the nearby Viñales valley, a national park dominated by strangely shaped limestone hills called mogotes.

The tour group... a Dutchman, an "American," and four Cubans... at the overlook at Los Jazmines. In Cuba, as in most of Latin America, the term norteamericano is usually used for people from the US; americano could refer to anyone from the Americas.

Looking down on some farms in the valley from the Los Jazmines overlook... a secador or shed for drying tobacco can be seen in the center. In addition to tobacco, people were growing maíz (corn), caña (sugar cane), malanga (a root crop), as well as raising cattle, goats, pigs, chickens, and turkeys.

The mogotes are the remains of a vast cave system which collapsed as the land mass of Cuba rose. There are still caves which people can explore, and there's even one you can ride through in a small boat! Our vehicle, a Toyota Land Cruiser, was a gift to the university from the United Nations.

The Mural de la Prehistoria (Mural of Prehistory) was painted on the side of a mogote by a student of Mexican muralist Diego Rivera.
A street corner in Viñales, the main town within the valley.

The Conference. This is the conference program cover.

A Cuban conference participant discusses the use of local words and expressions in public announcements regarding conservation and welfare, using Powerpoint.
Here I give my presentation: "Creole English on Carriacou, Grenada: A linguistic perspective." I used a low-tech overhead projector.
Conference participants take a break between sessions.

A few afterthoughts...

Many people think that it's illegal for US citizens to travel to Cuba, but this is not the case. What is illegal is spending US dollars in Cuba, unless you have a special license to do so; in my case, I was covered by my university's general license. Even with the license, however, you can't use credit cards or travelers checks drawn on US banks, so you pretty much have to carry the cash you'll need with you.

Most US citizens traveling to Cuba pass through a third country first, such as Mexico, Jamaica, or the Bahamas. Rarely one to do things the way most people do them, I flew directly from Miami to La Habana on one of the charters used by Cubans and Cuban-Americans to go back and forth. My flight, which lasted only about 45 minutes, was on a chartered Continental Airlines plane; I saw American Eagle planes also making the trip. For the trip to Cuba we assembled at a somewhat out-of-the-way corner of Miami International Airport, and it seemed as though we went through more than the usual security checks, but perhaps this was due to 9/11. In La Habana, also, we arrived and departed from the old international terminal at José Martí International, rather than the shiny newer terminal.

It took me a few days to adjust to Cuban Spanish, and in fact it was only the last day or two that I was understanding nearly everything anyone said, just in time to leave, unfortunately! Most Cubans either aspirate or elide syllable-final /s/, so that las casas might sound like [lah kasah] or simply [la kasa]. Also, syllable-final /r/ often sounds like [l]: porque might sound like [polke]. Finally, many Cubans devoice final unstressed vowels, especially in rapid speech, so that casa sounds a bit like [kas].

 

Page last modified December, 2006.

Copyright © 2006 by Ronald Kephart.